Origins of the Squash Blossom Necklace
When many think of “Indian” or native American jewelry, the treasured Squash Blossom necklace springs immediately to mind. The necklaces have at once a hypnotic and ethereal quality, and, at the same time impart a feeling of great substance. But, few people know about the fascinating origins of the “squash blossom” design. The roots extend back into antiquity; and knowing how the art form came to the Western Hemisphere makes these beautiful jewelry items all the more enchanting.
Although we, here in America, consider silver and turquoise jewelry to be uniquely native American, in fact, the use of turquoise and silver, and the “squash blossom” design predate the arrival of peoples to the Americas. The earliest American Indian squash blossom necklace does not appear before 1880. The earliest form of jewelry, found in the tomb of an Egyptian queen who was entombed more than 7,000 years ago, was made of gold and turquoise. Turquoise was a favorite stone in ancient Egypt, one of great value and importance. Records show that Egyptian troops were sent to Sinai to guard turquoise mines and bring back quantities of the stone. In the tomb of the famous King “Tut”, the greatest quantity of gemstones found were turquoise. Reportedly, ancient Egyptians and other cultures revered the stone for mystical powers including, health, friendship, to ward off the “evil eye”, and other beneficial mystical qualities.
The popularity of turquoise spread throughout the ancient world to Persia and beyond. Turquoise got its name when European traders, trading in Turkey, brought back the stone to Europe and called it “Pierre Turquoise”, or Stone of Turkey. They did not realize that the stones were actually mined in Persia and that Turks obtained them in trade. But the name stuck. Turquoise popularity spread throughout Europe like wildfire. Here, in the Americas, the earliest uses of the stone are in carved items dating from about 200BC.
The squash blossom design also originated in ancient Egypt, but the design was based on a pomegranate blossom. The pomegranate was associated with fertility and bounty, and ancient Egyptians fashioned items, both wearable and as domestic decorations, and functional pieces, that resembled the pomegranate blossom. It was and still is, a very graceful shape. Depictions of the pomegranate blossom can be seen in ancient Egyptian tomb paintings and carvings. The use of the design continued into “modern times”, and was brought to Spain during the Moorish conquest, most particularly used in silver or other metal necklaces with one or several of the shapes incorporated. Turquoise or other stones were seldom used. The design was simple, yet it still conveyed a powerful meaning; one that was very much attached to North Africa and the Middle East. We now have one of the components of the “squash blossom” necklace. Now we’ll look at the origin of naja – the crescent-shaped piece affixed to the bottom of many squash blossom necklaces.
The naja—the crescent shaped pendant attached to the squash blossom necklace-- also has Moorish/North African origins. The Moors, great horsemen, to whom the horse meant wealth and power, and indeed, their very survival-- decorated and dressed their beloved animals in various, colorful, sometimes splendid and opulent ways. One decoration was an iron or base metal crescent shape affixed to the bridles. It must have added a lot of shine and movement to their spirited steeds. And, it was eventually adopted by the people of Spain, as were so many other Moorish-influences such as, architecture, art, dance, medicine, mathematics, and horsemanship. So now we have two pieces of the squash blossom necklace—the Moorish/Spanish pomegranate necklace, and the crescent-shaped decorative naja pendant. But how did they get put together?
There were also buttons. Yes, buttons. The pomegranate shape, so well-liked by the Moors and continued in popularity by the Spaniards of Spain, was also used as metal buttons for shirts and trousers. You see where this is going… From Conquistadors to the Mexican Army-- troops clothing and uniforms used these pomegranate blossom shaped buttons. And so, the native American population, either by trade or capture, acquired these items, which they considered to be powerful or “status symbols” of the day. The beautiful metal-work crescent-shaped decorations from a horse’s bridal, the occasional silver or metal pomegranate blossom necklace, the metal buttons, all made their way into the culture of the native Americans. Reportedly, they would string these items around their necks as adornments. It may be simple to understand that many times being at odds with the newcomers, native Americans would acquire these items in battle; and the wearing of the enemy’s fine possessions in celebration of a victory was appropriate.
It is from these origins that the Squash Blossom necklace evolved. Because the Indian ceremonials largely dealt with the agricultural cycle, and the first jewelry was worn during these occasions, coupled with the fact that the beads along with the chain looked like pomegranates or squash blossoms, all have tended to portray the necklace in a crop-fertility ceremonial light. And as the ancient pomegranate blossom design was associated with fertility and plenty, this is only a continuation of that human expression of hope and survival. The squash blossom necklace serves as a reminder of the close interaction between the Pueblo and Navajo Indians since the mid-1800's. The necklace itself is Navajo, adopted by the Zuni. Yet the incorporation of turquoise on each of the blossoms is an advent of the Zuni later adopted by the Navajo.
And so we see countries and peoples, the conquered and the conquerors, enemies and neighbors, down through the ages, coming to appreciate ancient art forms passed down age to age, even into the New World. And we see them incorporating these uniquely human expressions of beauty and form from across the sea and across time into their own culture, imbuing them with their own meaning; changing them, embellishing them, combining them to make something new and beautiful. And that, is the story of the Squash Blossom necklace, which is really a story of human beings passing things of beauty from hand to hand through time. To own one and to wear one is to connect with the distant past, with other lives and loves, and to celebrate the human desire for beauty and meaning.
